How to Surf a 40 Foot Wave

/How to Surf a 40 Foot Wave

dsc_5982Surfing beckons, as in the biggest freakin’ waves you’ve ever seen in your life, on Oahu’s North Shore. A friend of mine, Kane Ryan, was in Hawaii last month at the same time that I was there. The swells coming in at Waimea, Sunset Beach and Banzai Pipeline were absolutely huge. They were so big that state officials closed the beaches, and us wide-eyed tourists had to gawk from shore. Fortunately for us, there were some locals who decided to take the proverbial bull by the horns and surfed the biggest waves I’ve ever seen. The guy at my hostel later told me that Pipeline is arguably the most dangerous surfing location on Earth. According to him, you’ve either gotta be suicidal or one of the top five pro surfers in the world. Dude, l was just honoured to be there! Even more amazing is the quality of these pictures. Kane’s got a great eye for the perfect shot, and a ridiculously fast camera.

Kane created The Dirty Wall Project in 2008 to fill immediate, small needs in the countries in which he’s travelled. He raises funds for The Dirty Wall Project through his photography, promotional events and his website. Last year he worked in an orphanage in India and he’s on his way back to India in a few weeks to do more work. It’s not often that you meet a genuine, true human being whose only desire is to help people. Kane is one of those people, and I’m honoured to know him.

dsc_5947dsc_5957dsc_5954dsc_5973dsc_5995

By | 2010-02-25T23:58:30+00:00 February 25th, 2010|Uncategorized|1 Comment

About the Author:

Steve Hutchings is an extreme sports blogger and adventure traveller with too much time on his hands. He loves shark diving and EDM/trance music. Also, he checks the stock market every 15 minutes.

Leave A Comment